same issue as the hurlcon with the interface, but its only a minor detail, easily adjustable, and works well in aussie conditions. Just my experience. Looking online, there doesn't appear to be any issues with the Crystal Clear brand. If you haven't' done so already get yourself an Eco pump – it will save you a lot of money in electricity. http://www.lincoln.ne.gov/city/health/environ/pollu/pdf/Cyanuric.pdf. If you keep your pH a bit lower, the new one might not cake up. Are these a reasonable quality or was I just lucky? No news indicates happy users.As there are only going to be 2 users I'd rather have reliability over ease of use.Do like the idea of being able to switch between mineral salts and regular salt. Thanks. I would feel better purchasing a replacement if they backed their product with a 5 year warranty. 1) If install from scratch; the system will not be able to bring your pool up to the level of chlorine required; you will need to dose it up first; it will then maintain the desired level. I still use my mechanical clock to turn on and off the salt water system. I also have solar so having a bigger unit and only running during the day would be an advantage.I have noticed since dosing manually the pool has been looking a lot better with the chlorine levels where they should be. My PPOR has a pool also, it came with an almost prehistoric Zodiac, I replaced that coming up to two years ago now I guess with another cheap Zodiac. http://www.puresilk.com.au/. Dosing your own pool with acid is not an onerous job, find a good pool shop that doesn't overly push its products and services and bring them a water sample to test every other weekend. Some of the sales blurbs for other models say this, but can't find mention for the LM3. You want it to be low: 7.2 or lower. I have a 26 y/o Salchlor convection chlorinator, and the output knob on the control box appears to be malfunctioning.It was great having it run independently of the pump, and I never had any issues with chlorine supply. Verified by strips and store. Once I got my water stabilized, I threw a few Clorox tablets in the skimmer and my floating chlorinator and my levels have been perfect. Keep things simple, everything you automate is going to break just out of warranty and will cost you an absolute fortune to fix or replace ;-). However I have never had my pool water level low enough to confirm it.Because of its internal clock I can not link my salt water systems on and off time with it Neither. The time has come to buy a new, self cleaning model. He quoted my $980 to supply and fit the RP3000.I think I can do a bit better than that through another contact. â¢At a concentration of 10 mg/L of cyanuric acid the loss of chlorine is reduced to about 12%. Salt chlorine generators are rated for the maximum amount of gallons a salt cell can chlorinate. I would also want to know I can self-install and there's no change to warranty. https://www.alibaba.com/products/emaux_ssc_50.html?IndexArea=product_en. They try and sell you all there sh%t equipment and then deny any responsibility and push you away when things fall apart a few years later. I read a while back something about a local company doing reliable chlorinator – AIS Autochlor? Just a quick note to congratulate you on your level of service. As I have recently bought a new cell for it ,I don't want to replace the whole system. Interested in trying something different but still chlorine based.I think lower salt levels are more pleasant, in the 3000 to 4000pm level.Also I get sore muscles regularly so am interested in mineral salts. We have sand filter and 1yo Astral pump, not VS. Yeah, seen the hype about magnesium salt. Bump, any feedback or comments please? Thanks again, we will be recommending your company to everyone we know who owns a pool. All you need to do is use a water de-chlorinator after filling and with each water change. Have had my unit fail multiple times now and has become too costly for me to run. temp set at 26 or 32 I basically have to double the run time of the pump to keep the balance. Am cautious of magnapool. IntelliChlor® Salt Chlorinator uses common table salt to produce all the chlorine a pool needs, safely, effectively, and automatically. The one that failed is a zodiac tri compact. It essentially looks to turnover/filter the entire pool 1.5 times as per my setting then continues until it reaches its ORP level – I think this was about 1 or 2 hours before it reduces to low speed. Will be recommending you to everyone. It has stopped working again in less than 12months since. I was pretty impressed with the honest advice given, but now I am stunned. The pump works well, too good, which created problems with the old pipes not being able to handle the higher pressure. My advice is to go a smaller pool company whos not part of this corporation, you will be treated much better. My pool is 70,000 – 75,000 litre in Brisbane. Running a typical pump/salt chlorinator combo (1200W) for just 2 hours extra per day only during summer @ 30c/kW = $65.70 plus wear and tear on the equipment and generally the chlorinator will run for the whole time the pump's running so it's not like it's sitting idle while the pump runs (just because the cell may not be outputting doesn't mean the chlorinator isn't running). I think you'd be fine with a 35 gram per hour chlorinator. Best interface layout, easy to program, reverse polarity, and reliable run around the 4000 mark pretty well ( except winter when the salt light low light comes on ) Hurlcons range is good too, slightly too many buttons though and programing is a bit stupid apart from that they are reverse polarity and quite solid and reliable as well. Worst purchase I've made in my life and pissed off at myself, so many other options out there and I went this piece of junk. I bought an Astral pump through best price pool equipment a couple of years ago. Brisbane company with a locally designed & built product & warranty seems good. If you do the sums (averaging costs over the seasons for a 55,000 litre pool): SW chlorination running cost:Cost of electricity (for 6 hours operation per day)Pump @ 1000 watts for 6 hours pd = 6kwh pd = 2200kwh pa @ $0.30 = $660 paSW chlorinator @ 150 watts for 6 hours pd = 1 kwh pd @ $0.30 = $110 paSalt cost = 100kgm pa = $30 paTotal running cost = $660 + $110 + $30 =$800 pa.SW chlorinator replacement cost:SW chlorinator @ $800 over 5 years = $160 paTotal SW chlorinator operating cost = $800 + $160 = $960 pa. If I didnt know i was swimming in a magna pool i would never know the diff.. placebo effect for me. http://www.watermaid.com/chlorinators.html#WM40. Pump looks fine, should come with a 3 year warranty for piece of mind. It's the chloride the chlorinator is converting to chlorine, not the cation it's attached to in solid form. Impressed beyond words even. Yes, we feel that Astra is a good theme for blogging. Do you know if it's possible to replace/fix? Is this the case?- Would I be better getting a sightly bigger variable speed pump so I can ramp the flow up and down as required? Pool hardware is so short lived and expensive. I'm in the same boat, 55,000l salt water pool and looking for a more power efficient pool pump. Yes and that 1-3 kg of stabiliser will depend on the size of the pool. This man knows what he's talking about, I second everything he said. For the past 5 years, the front panel has been almost unusable, but it still worked, and the "no brand" $255 replacement cell from Best Pool Supplies is 2 years old and still looks in good shape. Thank you so much less than 48 hours and my pumped is delivered!!! I have decided to use a mineral salt system, but have had trouble getting advice on suitable chlorinators from equipment suppliers. Yes that's what has happened to mine, the on/off/auto switch has broken off. Say your pool is at 3 ppm free chlorine. Recommendations from online pool shops have been, Pentair – Freeflo -$900https://poolandspawarehouse.com.au/pentair-freeflo-35rp-pool-chlorinator-5y-warranty.html, both Australian. I've heard great things on the. Replacement turbo salt cell for the Goldline Aqua Rite salt chlorinator from Hayward, Hayward replacement part number T-CELL-15. If the pH is high, add one gallon of muriatic acid, which should be enough. Climate and location would also be another variable that would impact on filter run times. Water temp does have a big impact on chlorine evaporation. Just filled after repaint with epoxy. Any of those and you should be on the right track, I agree with you on the auto PH dosers etc.. more parts that can break! The timer failed on the monarch chloromatic (it's over 12 years old and on it's third cell) so it's plugged into a $9 power point timer and works fine. WPBeginner Support says: Aug 19, 2019 at 11:21 am. As a matter of fact it says: "...a study published bythe University at California at Davis, indicates that there is still significant savings in chemicalcosts in levels as low as 2 or 3 ppm. Don't know which brands are best, but just wondering how much the board costs and can you DIY the swap? I would recommend your company and service to anyone. Might just buy a decent electronic hand-held tester and do it all myself. Low flow conditions can result in insufficient water in the cell causing inefficient chlorine production. the pool installer says he is slowly installing more and more of them let me get back to ya in 12 months or so with a report lol. What the manufacturers don't tell you about this particular system is that it is made for indoor pools and does not work well with any amount of CYA present in the water! Reply. Tom Low says: Aug 19, 2019 at 2:35 am. I have it set to 650 and it appears to meet the desired levels of chlorine as tested manually and the system would actually run full speed for a few hours before it does in indeed reduce to low speed. I'm surprised it would run at all with the plates touching. Unless you have a pool over 90,000 litres, or 10 kids in it for 4 hours or more, day in day out, 35 grams/hr is enough, imho, provided you killed off algae completely before relying on the chlorinator. Then you'll see way less daily consumption. Other authorities recommend about 20 ppm for a good costto-benefit ratio...". As for the loss I can only assume it's due to evaporation, but I don't know, but I do know it doesn't just disappear from the pool. Hurlcons range is good too, slightly too many buttons though and programing is a bit stupid apart from that they are reverse polarity and quite solid and reliable as well. 3.Acid pump failed under warranty cost ?500. The electrolysis process also requires salt to be regularly added. You still need to run the pump/filter regardless of the acid dosing method. I have a really tight/small housing for all my pool equipment at the moment and it's surrounded by this brick structure the previous owner made. I didn't say stabiliser was a rort either, I stated that it's optional and in some instances will impact on the equipment being used. 83k litres isn't an average pool and if it's using up all the stabiliser in that time there's a fault because it's not 'consumed' as such. Water purification is the process of removing undesirable chemicals, biological contaminants, suspended solids, and gases from water. Thank you for the wonderful customer service & cost pricing. There is so many out there that I have no idea, and don't trust any pool shops to recommend. Also found another brand called Seal. I also have solar so having a bigger unit and only running during the day would be an advantage. One thing that does worry me bit is the timer control. Phenomenon 1000. Reading this thread it seems the main manufacturers Astral (Hurlcon), Zodiac and Davey are just 'okay' some people experience major problems with all of them. The light for generating is still “on.” I have not tested the salt with a strip. I have about a 60,000L pool. 5. Confirm with Astralpool service consultant that it should be dosed up first. When you call Jorge's mother in Guatemala, she tells you that he had been bitten by a vampire bat in May. Nothing but problems with it since day one. my pools all boarded up at the moment waiting for the bond beams to be poured i was hoping for it to be done before easter but no luck as for sanitization ive decided on going with the enviroswim system after talking with some people who are using the system for a couple of yrs. I use a Zodiac LM3-40 which is stated to be suitable for pools up to 120,000 litres, https://poolandspawarehouse.com.au/zodiac-lm3-40-salt-water-chlorinator.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2YntzLe82gIVBHZgCh3CtAzFEAQYAiABEgL0cfD_BwE. Hubby says you can't do better with regards to service. I must be getting a good run ... my Davey (Monarch) Chloromatic MSC24 is still on its first cell and is 7 years old and runs 365 days a year. I will certainly be in contact for any future pool requirements and will recommend your company highly. Test the pH again after shocking and four hours of circulation. Will probably have an electric heater running off solar. Have now just replenished salt levels, cranked up the ORP level to 650 again the other day (manually tested) to ensure its correct and now ready for the the upcoming season. Unsure of age of old one as it was inherited with house purchase. IntelliChlor Salt Chlorinator uses common table salt to produce all the chlorine a pool needs, safely, effectively, and automatically. I suspect you would need 10 hours run time for filtration anyway. Donât bother with another salt water chlorinator! My 12 yo Chloromatic ESC24 has just died and the salt cell is gone too. I enquired about the new ESC24 but was told they had issues with the timers failing. I turn off the power, then back on, and I get another 3 minutes. Would either a high or low salt … Without hesitation Allstar had me return it to them. Over the past few years I have stopped using acid feed and manually added acid based on numbers. I have a Viron eQ and it works fine, the manual actually tells you specifically not to use stabiliser otherwise it will screw up the ORP probe. We had a poolrite surechlor 3000 (5,000pm NaCl) for our 45,000L fibreglass pool, and it would have been 15-20yrs old which is a good innings. Actually your Surechlor 3000 recommended salt level was 6000 – 8000ppm. Free-floating algae is invisible in the pool. The pool is about 35kl and coming up to 8 years old. You'll tend to get at least 4 or 5 years out of a cell, and some people go 10 years. The price was fantastic and almost half the price of one here in Gladstone. Of those four, my favourite is the zodiac, because the interface is simple and the chlorinator does the job. Other than some initial settling in issues; it works as designed. Reply; Inaccurate; Orlando B on Mar 28, 2018; Purchased on Apr 27, 2016 This is the first time I have bought something online and I have just received a phone call from my wife to say it has been delivered. Is the free version of Astra actually any good for blogging? The test results confirm that Jorge has rabies. I spent over 20 years in the industry and know what stabiliser does and if you think it's a rort by all means stick to that belief. Model Numbers still incoming. As a beginner with pool chlorination systems, any suggestions would be appreciated. For a standard pool, the chlorinator provides all the automation needed (timer and % of time making chlorine). Once again, thanks so much. I had always intended to bypass the timer if it died completely and just use an external timer, but after having it to bits to figure out how to upgrade it from the 16 to the 24 I noted the MCU requires standby power so it remembers where it was in the polarity cycle. Omg, I cannot believe the service we have received from you guys, thank you so much. A salt chlorinator will supply a more even level, not perfect, but better than manual, especially with ACL. The nearest recommends zodiac and have zodiac logos on their shirts. As I'm no pool expert, for the chlorinator purchase, I will go with a local pool store. As a precaution, the cell can be installed vertically or in an inverted manner From the Manufacturer Stabiliser is entirely optional, of course if you don't use it during the summer months you then need to generate more chlorine but that's far cheaper than pouring bags of stabiliser in constantly. I wouldn't buy another one. Should I just get the LM3-25 people have mentioned?My pool shop is recommending a Pool Control SWC25. You'll tend to get at least 4 or 5 years out of a cell, and some people go 10 years. Looks like the popular Zodiac LM3 models have been removed from their website. So when a kid sweats or other in the pool, you're consuming a much smaller percentage of your chlorine. The zodiac tri-xo works well if you get the acid doser. At 120,000 litres our household can get just some epsom salts and run a bath. After the SLAM, consider keeping your stabilizer up around 70 ppm and chlorine around 7 ppm and the algae won't come back. yeah..maybe overstated a little...but you see the point. One thing that does worry me bit is the timer control. Any other recommendations I should look at? No fancy dosing/measurements etc. I'm looking for a basic, reliable, self-cleaning unit. Thanks for the replies needsajet and shotover. Price is good, delivery fast and they give you all the information required to install yourself, even pointing out possible problems so they never become an issue. Stabiliser might reduce the effectiveness of chlorine but that's outweighed by it stopping the UV eating the chlorine away in outdoor pools (unless you use too much). Pool is 1980 built, concrete/plaster/epoxy. That you can still maintain the correct chlorine levels without the use of stabiliser, which is just something else you have to add to the pool, pay for and measure. I've found that for my pool (approx 50,000 litres) that it does the job ok as long as I supplement with the tablets, and the chlorine tablets are enough to boost the level when there is a hot spell but not enough to burn your eyes and leave a smell. Zodiac gets bagged out because they have the most warranty claims, but I believe they also have the highest market share, so that might be a red herring. Or I can unplug the pump from the chlorinator, and plug the pump into the chlorinator's power point if I want a longer run. Agree with above. I managed to pull it to bits, clean the contacts (I used Deoxit) and put it back together without losing any parts. You don't need to add chlorine manually unless your chlorine generator cannot produce enough chlorine to … Our aim is to provide you with quality pool supplies at competitive prices and make the process simple and hassle free. I ordered a new chlorinator cell about 9 am on Monday morning. I'm sick and tired of walking into my shed and seeing the blue light flashing. After about 3 minutes on backwash or drain, it cuts out due to low flow. I am also in the market for a new chlorinator & cell. Adjustable cell current. Thanks again, we will be recommending your company to everyone we know who owns a pool. Bigger SWC is great too and will allow you to run for just 3 or 4 hours if that's your preference. When you see green, the algae is in a runaway stage, multiplying very fast. FWIW, I look after 3 pools, and my experience is:Monarch Chloromatic ESC24 – 12 years and just got its 3rd cell this year; mechanical timer no longer works, using a $12 timer on the power pointWaterco Electrochlor 25SC – 5 years, no fixes, working fine. And what happens when you have a pool greater than 96K L as there is only 24hrs in a day (tic). Without stabiliser, you may need to run your Chlorinator and filtration system up to 16 hours per day longer!!! There's more choice at 25 to 35 grams per hour. Had the board replaced last year with same error but the problem seems to always pop up when the water starts to get warmer...which to me defeats the purpose of having an auto chlorinator when it doesn't work when you want to swim leaving me with no chlorine in the pool. My advice is to get a much larger chlorinator than required for the size of your pool. I'm looking for a basic, reliable, self-cleaning unit. Is this going to cause major issues like a short circuit or anything? I've never heard of them. The salt water chlorination system requires a lot of electrical energy because the pump and chlorinator both need to run for at least 6 hours every day to generate sufficient chlorine. © 2020 Allstar Pool Parts. Although the pump still needs to be used for filtering, running time can be substantially reduced, extending the life of both pump and filter. Any recommendations for good salt water chlorinators? Salt concentration warning. Two local pool shops want to install an Astral Viron V25, and the cheapest price quoted to supply and fit was $1300.As my mate has a Crystal Clear chlorinator, I rang the Gold Coast factory, and their mobile distributor dropped in today. Acid feed injector failed causing to system to run dry. My Zodiac Tri mid is constantly showing "output fault" error message. Anyone used it? But anyway, IMO Puresilk is the best and unless something's gone drastically wrong in the last couple of years their service is outstanding. Thank you! The problem is I have taken the esc24 timer apart twice and havnt been able to reassemble correctly. System is great when it's working but I have just run out of cash to keep it going and it would cost me $1000 to fix. I throttle it back in the cooler months to 15 mins a day and super dose with Chlorine at the start of the season (Melbourne is too cool 8 months of the year). ..... or the chlorination method used to maintain your water. It's now just under 5 years old. Which throws out all your estimates by a lot. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. Found Nicole's pre-purchase advice prompt and helpful and after sales help lacking and frustrating. You will always have a green pool. How about Waterco Hydrochlor? Our Chlorinator died a couple of months ago so dosing manually until I get a replacement (or can afford one)Have an 80000lt pool and have been told our old one was miles to small, and have to agree as the pool was always needing dosing due to continued algae growth. Just buying a 15l drum of acid and once per year and connecting it is so much easier than dealing with that awful stuff on a weekly basis. Would like something reliable. Academia.edu is a platform for academics to share research papers. I use Watermaid, they seem to hold up quite well. Stabiliser isn't something you constantly throw into pools. Myself and my husband have had excellent experience dealing with Allstar Poolparts. I use a Viron P320 and have found it great, when the pump at my tenants house went I bought one for them too, I have mine connected to Tariff 33. I just realised this is a chlorinator thread lol. Found from others that have them this is a common fault as one of the relays on the left burn out and can be replaced (relay is cheap <$10) but zodiac want $500 for a whole new board.Haven't had the new one long enough to have an opinion yet, australia made transformer type, still bringing the salt level down from 5000 to 3000. The result was it would stay in auto (bottom), and sometimes It'd stay off, but it would not stay in manual (up). 4. It's 120,000 litres and quite possibly an underestimate, maybe 125/130. The micro switches fail and then the actuator that pokes through the front panel gets brittle and bits break off. 2. The goal is to produce water fit for specific purposes. How reliable/value for money are the Zodiac LM3 systems? I look forward to dealing with you again. Watermaid WM40 with terminal junction box for cell, good quality & reliable.
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